Pangandaran

Noted for its generally safe swimming and its quietness, Pangandaran is one of Java’s most beautiful beach resorts. This once sleepy fishing village is located o the south coast just west boundary between West and Central Java and is about 210 km southeast of Bandung-a drive of five to six hours.

From Bandung and Yogjakarta, it is easily reached by public transportation (taxi, bus or train). This beach town is popular among Bandung’s resident expatriates and tourists traveling between Bandung and Yogjakarta. Apart from the long, broad beaches and a lazy atmosphere, a National Park on the peninsula offers an abundance of wildlife, caves and delightful walks. The village is located on a narrow isthmus connecting a rocky peninsula to the mainland. The diverse geology on the peninsula has given rise to many forms of wildlife, making it an ideal place for the National Park there. On either side of the 200 to 800 m wide isthmus are sandy beaches.

Because the main road bypasses the village in the north, there is absolutely no through traffic. Though there are some motor vehicles in the village, strolling the wide lanes is relaxing and pleasant. The combination of sun and beach, the absence of hurry, and the warm evening breezes give Pangandaran an almost Mediterranean feel. At full moon, you have the rare opportunity of seeing both the sun setting over the west beach and the moon rising over the east beach.

In the mornings, fishermen arrive in their boats bringing the night’s catch. If you’re up early enough, you can watch them unloading and sorting the fish-the beach on the east side of the isthmus is especially lively and colorful in the mornings. The fish market at the southern end of the east beach, not far from the entrance to the nature reserve, is the place to go in the early morning.

Things to Do in Pangandaran Many people go to Pangandaran simply to relax; however, for those who relax by doing something there are plenty of things to do. To begin with, a number of small industries are located in Pangandaran itself, including a wayang golek puppet carver near the village center. Take a becak or rent a bicycle and explore the very local village center of

Pangandaran, which is just outside the perimeter of tourist area. Pangandaran’s foremost attraction, however, is the beach. The east beach is not as good for swimming and rather serves the fishermen’s needs, while the west beach is quite popular for walking, swimming and hanging out. Be forewarned, though, that dangerous currents and undertows are frequent and cost several lives every year. The safest place to swim is the south end of the beach; it is usually monitored and posted for safe swimming. An attractive little beach on the nature reserve is

Pasir Putih (white sand). It’s about a 20 minute walk from the fishing village. You go through the reserve entry gate and pay an admission fee, then walk for about a quarter of an hour, keeping right and following the signs to Pasir Putih. You can also go there by boat from the west beach, but be sure to bargain for the fare, the boat will wait until you are ready to return. While you are there, beware of the cheeky monkeys, they may take away your food or even your clothes!

Bicycling has become popular in Pangandaran because of scant car traffic, flat terrain, and the many routes for local tours. Bicycles of all sizes, colors and models can be rented at a number of places. The best time to cycle is of course in the morning, for it gets hot quickly. You can cycle around in the village and explore kampung life by means of the many paths and narrow streets, or you can make a longer tour and cycle out west parallel to the beach. Turning inland from the beach road takes you along sandy lanes and through coconut and cacao groves. More ambitious cyclist might want to pedal 7 km west to the lagoon, or even farther by crossing the road to Cijulang and venturing north into the hills where forests and waterfalls are.
Outings Near Pangandaran

Some 12 km west of Pangandaran along the coastal road is Batu Hiu, a bizarre rock right on the coats. Its name means “shark rock,” though shark are not to be found anywhere in the whole coastal area. This huge rock is covered with smooth grass, ha prop-rooted pandanus palms, and provides a fine vista over the whole bay. A car park right is beside it, but because the parking fee is ridiculously high, you should try to park outside. Still, an admission fee is required. Between Pangandaran and Batu Hiu is a sign pointing south to Karang Tirta, an alleged “tourist object.”

Also, the admission fee is excessive. A little farther west of Batu Hiu is Cijulang village, about 15 km from Pangandaran. Three kilometers past Cijulang you come to the Cijulang River. From here you can take a boat trip up river to the magical Green Canyon. Slow down when you see the steel girder bridge over the river and you will soon be offered a boat for hire. Bargain for about $10. The round trip in a dugout through half-open for get up the river with its green water takes two to three hours- your help in addling is greatly appreciated. The scenery is lovely. The journey ends here the river emerges from a huge opening in a rock. Here you can swim to the river or search for the drip-stone cave in the rocks. A few kilometers beyond the steel girder bridge is Batu Karas, an idyllic beach just a forty-five minute driving from Pangandaran. Turn left immediately after the bridge (look for the road sign to Batu Karas). After about fifteen minutes you reach a black sand beach, a tiny fishing village and few bungalows.

The surf is gentle, less dangerous than in Pangandaran, and good surfing. On the west side of the beach is a cliff from where you have a wonderful view east along the coast. A pleasant one-hour round trip from Pangandaran is a visit to Karang Nini (karang means “coral”). It’s a twenty-minute drive from Pangandaran) 9 km from the bus terminal) on the road to Banjar. If you came through Banjar on the way to Pangandaran, you may have seen the sign on the road side. Karang Nini is a recreation park on a limestone ridge with a lookout tower from which you have a beautiful view over the bay and peninsula.